Cape Cod Insider

Kayaking Herring River and Bells Neck

Herring River is a totally different kayaking experience from Bass River.  A large portion of the river meanders throughout a protected area known as Bells Neck.  In addition to kayaking, there are also a lot of hiking paths. There are no marked trails so you just have to head out on some of the paths and see where you end up. You can access this area either from Rte. 28 by going North on Bells Neck Road or from Great Western Road by going South on Bells Neck Road.  You can also park and launch in a town lot off Route 28 on the west side of Herring River.  Depending on the tide, you can choose to either go upstream or downstream from this landing.  At low tide, there is very little water in this river.  You do not want to get caught upstream at low tide unless you plan to hike around the area. Likewise you do not want to get caught at the mouth of the river and have to paddle back to your car way upstream.  Neither scenario will be particularly fun.

Bells Neck is a very isolated area in the middle of Harwich.  There are tall reeds all along the river and you may begin to wonder if you will meet up with the Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn on the African Queen.  At times, you cannot see around the next bend in the river because the reeds are so tall and the river can be very narrow. 

Because of the isolation of Bells Neck, it is an excellent place for bird watching.  There are two reservoirs here but they are not connected to one another at all.  The East Reservoir is interesting to paddle around but it is self-contained.  The West Reservoir is connected to Herring River but you can’t get to the river from the reservoir because they are only connected underwater via a very large pipe.

You can park along Bells Neck Road (dirt) and launch your kayaks where the river crosses the road.  If you paddle North, you will head toward the West Reservoir.  The last time I was there, the river up near the reservoir was full of swans.  Just remember, even though they are beautiful to see, don’t try to get very close to the swans because they have a nasty disposition.  Keep your distance!

If you paddle South where the river crosses Bell Neck Road, you will wander through some beautiful marsh area and if you have timed the tides right, you will be able to float and just lean back and enjoy the view and wildlife.  If you go far enough, you will go under Route 28.  The  river will widen here and there will be some beautiful homes to enjoy as you head toward Nantucket Sound.  There are some nice beaches to enjoy at the mouth of the river.

Kayaking Bass River

Bass River is the longest river on the Cape and there are many places to launch. Check a map of the area and see where there are town landings where you can launch and park.  Or call the towns of Dennis and Yarmouth and they should be able to help you out. One scenario would be to launch at either end of the river (depending on the tide: on the chart look at tides for South Yarmouth and Dennisport) and then leisurely paddle and float to the other end, wait for the tide to turn and then return to your starting point.  Or, leave a car at one end and then get dropped off at the other end and just paddle the length of the river going with the tide. Or do part of the river one day and another part some other day. Just make sure you bring plenty of water and something to eat.

The lower part of the river (south of the Bass River Bridge) is very busy with a lot of boat traffic.  It is also very scenic and alive. There is a nice beach at the Windmill where I am sure you could stop by and swim. You will also see some really beautiful homes.  These homes are just fun to float by and wonder what it would be like to live there. Just make sure you stay close to shore as much as possible. If you continue to kayak toward the mouth of the river, you can access the West Dennis Beach which is a large (crowded) and sandy beach on Nantucket Sound.  Access the beach from Bass River.  Don’t attempt to go out into Nantucket Sound.  Pull your kayak out on the beach before the Breakwater (large stone wall or jetty).

Over by the marina on the north side of the Bass River Bridge is a restaurant called Sundancers. You can always pull your kayak out near the marina or at the town landing (Dennis side).  The restaurant has good food at a moderate price and there is an outdoor deck that overlooks the river.  This is a good place to stop and rest and get a bite to eat and get your strength back.

Traveling further upriver (the north side of the Bass River Bridge and past the Bass River Golf Course) the river traffic is much less. There are a lot of inlets and “ponds” to paddle around and explore.  As you look at your map, you will see names such as Grand Cove, Kelley’s Bay, Dinah’s Pond, Follins Pond and Mill Pond.  All of these are part of Bass River which is what makes this such a great place to kayak and explore. 

By the way, for the history buffs, there is some evidence that Leif Erickson navigated Bass River over 1000 years ago.  I guess there have been some artifacts found that suggest Leif and the boys may have visited. Anything is possible.

Kayaking on the rivers of Cape Cod: General Information

To beign with, here is some general information about river kayaking on Cape Cod.  Although you do not have to worry about white water or raging water or rocks, you do have to pay a lot of attention to the tidal currents and the wind.

The most important thing is to know your tides.  Parts of these rivers can be so shallow at low tide that it is very difficult and unpleasant to even kayak there.  You don’t want to get yourself all geared up and ready to go and then be disappointed or extremely annoyed and frustrated.  Getting hung up on a mud flat is not a lot of fun. When you decide where you want to go, check the tides in either the Cape Cod Times or the Cape Codder (which serves mid-Cape) and plan accordingly. Your goal is to arrange your kayaking so that you are always going with the tide.  Tides in rivers result in strong currents that are tough to be paddling against. Where you launch from and where you plan to go to will determine when you should go. Remember, when the tide goes out, you go out with it, when the tide turns and comes in, you come back with it. Since the tides change twice per day, planning is the key.

Also, just as important is the wind.  The worst possible scenario would be to paddle into the wind and against the tide.  It doesn’t get any worse than this.  Check the weather report and see if the winds are expected to pick up in the afternoon.  Don’t forget that the winds can be gentle or non-existent in the morning and become quite strong in the afternoon.

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I am strictly a novice recreational kayaker.  I enjoy getting out on the water, seeing new and interesting places that you can only see from the water, viewing wildlfe, and just having a great time.  To that end, I carefully watch the tides and winds to make sure that I have done everything I can to make it a really fun time!